Domaine Du Pegau
An iconic producer of traditionally styled Châteauneuf, Pegau has a vast worldwide group of highly loyal fans, many of whom have trekked to the estatefor a visit with the extremely hospitable and entertaining Féraud family.
Laurence Feraud makes no apologies for the sometimes rustic character of Pegau’s wines, which are no sourced from the domain’s 21 hectares of wines, made entirely with whole clusters and aged in old foudres and demi-muids for two years before bottling without fining or filtration. On the contrary, Féraud relishes the opportunity to continue the family tradition of making « wild wines that have their own personality. Like people with a unique character, not everybody is going to be in love with them. »There will be a cuvée Da Capo produced in 2015, she told me, making it the first to be bottled since the 2010.
Domaine du Pegau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée 2010 – (97) pts.
Intense, with the tarry, bittersweet cocoa-fueled grip of the vintage running throught a well-endowed core of crushed plum, blackberry paste and braised fig. The musclar finish picks upnotes of brick dust, pepper, warm chestnut leaf and smoldering charcoal. A throwback profile, with a hyperripe core of fruit-and it works. Best from 2015 through 2035. From France.-J.M.